For many intrigued by the thought of how deep can one dive into the realms of fashion, Japan may be a perfect place to venture. A country of undeniably unique culture, their approach to fashion also reflects an eclectic variety of subdivisions and backgrounds, be it mainstream or underground.

Streetwear has also shown a progressive evolution throughout the years, and there is a noticeable rise of domestic brands and retailers within the Land of the Rising Sun—with SNKRDUNK being one of them. Zooming in, we have curated a list of names that we think you should look out for in 2023. Below are our five picks, in no particular order:

1. WIND AND SEA

No one does typography designs like WIND AND SEA. Founded in 2018 by stylist/photographer Takashi Kumagai, the Tokyo-based label started out as a vintage American clothing boutique before starting their original apparel line.

Focused on the concept of “creating only what we want to create”, Kumagai does not look to current trends, but rather more of what reflects the current state of the brand. While WIND AND SEA mainly offers minimalistic designs for all demographics, recent collaborations with HYSTERIC GLAMOUR, ASICS, et al. exhibit a fresh perspective, and in due time, get the attention of the global market.

2. FACETASM

Winner of 2016’s Mainichi Fashion Grandprix, FACETASM is a brand founded by Hiromichi Ochiai back in 2007. Inspired by the French term “facet”, Ochiai has always upheld the idea of viewing things from different perspectives and making fashion a positive thing. A philosophy deeply reflected in his designs.

From zippers to gum tapes, FACETASM has always shown a contemporary yet unconventional approach to detailing and fabric cutting. Alongside collaborations with Coca-Cola, Nike and more, they’ve also reached out to FamilyMart for a lifestyle essentials line called “Convenience Wear”.

3. monkey time

For those unfamiliar with monkey time, the brand functions as a subsidiary of UNITED ARROWS’ BEAUTY&YOUTH. Paying homage to traditional designs through modern streetwear aesthetics, the brand delivers a catalogue focused on four elements: tailoring, military, motorbike and music; alongside products from other labels.

Drawing a fine line between high and low fashion, the brand is known for their contemporary takes on lifestyle silhouettes, with a collaborative portfolio that includes renowned labels like Champion, The North Face, STAMPD, amongst many others.

4. Needles

It’s difficult to imagine how one manages weekly collaborations, but Needles has shown its successes through recent collaborations with Reebok, KITH, UNION, to name a few. Started by NEPENTHES’ founder Keizo Shimizu, the brand’s name is a play on “need-less”, portraying the mindset of only needing the essentials.

Mostly synonymous for their track pants and mohair cardigans, the brand through their seasonal releases, aims to design unique pieces that speak a language of their own. With production focused on Japan, Shimizu has expressed that having full control over materials and fabrics ensure a delivery of quality products.

5. WILDSIDE Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto is no stranger to many, but most may not have heard of his WILDSIDE sublabel. Launched in 2022, his latest conceptual project focuses on collaborations with brands and artists of various fields, including but not limited to fashion.

As the name implies, boundaries are expanded as partnering labels manifest their design nuances over the canvas of the avant-garde master’s signature silhouettes. In less than a year, we have already seen releases with AMBUSH, MINEDENIM, NOMA t.d. and others, which only suggest that more is to be expected from the brand in the near future.

There are still many that went unmentioned here, but we hope that this list expands your perspective of streetwear culture in Japan.

As the above-mentioned names continue to flourish, there’s plenty more to look forward to as we continue to deliver the latest news through our magazine.

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