The tennis shoe’s journey is a fascinating exploration of function meeting fashion, evolving with the sport itself. From its utilitarian beginnings in the late 1800s to its current status as a cultural touchstone, the tennis shoe’s story is one of innovation, self-expression, and enduring style.

Early tennis attire was reflective of societal norms of the times, with cumbersome layers and restrictive footwear. As the sport gained popularity, so did the need for more practical options. Thus, the early 20th century saw the rise of rubber-soled sneakers, offering players much-needed traction and comfort.

Early tennis attire circa early 1900s (Source: Vogue)

The Open Era of 1968 ushered in a new era of sponsorship and self-expression. Players like Billie Jean King, sporting blue suede adidas, challenged the traditional all-white uniform. Brands like adidas and Stan Smith saw the potential for signature sneakers, catering to both performance and personal style.

Then, the 1970s and ’80s witnessed an explosion of personality on the court. Björn Borg’s pinstriped polos and FILA footwear redefined tennis aesthetics. John McEnroe’s rebellious spirit extended to his footwear, popularizing non-traditional Nike sneakers on the court. Andre Agassi’s audacious style was reflected in his vibrant Nike Air Tech Challenge IIs, a sneaker later embraced by musicians and celebrities.

FILA x The Notorious B.I.G. Collection

In the succeeding decade, tennis sneakers transcended the court, becoming a staple in hip-hop culture. FILA’s T-1 and PUMA’s California models became favorites, with collaborations like FILA’s Biggie Smalls-inspired capsule collection solidifying the connection between tennis and hip-hop.

Performance continued to evolve through the ’90s. Monica Seles’ FILA 2A sneakers boasted advanced shock absorption alongside playful designs. Pete Sampras’ understated Nike Air Oscillate introduced a carbon fiber plate for stability. Technology continued to refine performance, with lighter and more breathable materials becoming the norm.

Serena Williams in her Air Jordan 1 x Nike Flare (left); a recreation of a classic Michael Jordan ad with Williams (right)

The 2000s saw female players like Jennifer Capriati aligning with brands that resonated with their personal style. Serena Williams’ journey, from PUMA to Nike, mirrored her own rise to superstardom. Nike’s recreation of a classic Michael Jordan ad with Williams wearing the Nike Flare highlighted the crossover appeal of tennis sneakers.

The intersection of tennis and high fashion also blossomed, with players like Maria Sharapova collaborating with designers like Riccardo Tisci for more elegant on-court looks. Retro tennis sneakers became canvases for designers like Gosha Rubchinskiy.

Perhaps the none exemplifies this phenomenon quite like the Stan Smith. Once a performance staple, the Stan Smith has transcended genres, finding a place in hip-hop, high fashion, and even sustainable design—and remains nonpareil 60 years on.

As tennis sneakers continue to evolve, here is a list of some of their best iterations so far:

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