The Nike Cortez is a storied silhouette with a rich history—one that (most notably) spans the Swoosh’s development as a brand, the sports world, American West Coast gang culture, and hip-hop, among others. To put on a pair of these goes beyond mere aesthetics for many, and understanding the lore behind the Nike Cortez is sure to make you fall all the more in love with it. Let’s begin in the mid-1960s: a time before Nike was even called its namesake.

When Did the Nike Cortez Come Out?

In the mid-’60s, Nike was known as Blue Ribbon Sports, or BRS for short. The company operated as a US distribution company for the Japanese shoe brand Onitsuka Tiger—which, in 1977, joined forces with GTO, JELENK, and several sewing factories to become the brand we all know today—ASICS.

The Blue Ribbon Sports brand logo.

In 1966, BRS co-founder and respected Oregon track and field coach Bill Bowerman, together with Onitsuka Tiger, designed the predecessor to the Cortez, known as the TG-24. In a stroke of marketing genius, in 1968, both Bowerman and (BRS co-founder) Phil Knight, decided to market the shoe for the Olympics that were being held in Mexico that year.

An old ad for the Blue Ribbon Sports x Onitsuka Tiger TG-24.

After some disagreements between BRS and Onitsuka Tiger, a name was settled upon: The Aztec. This name drew from Mexico’s history, and seemed perfect—that is, until adidas found out about it and threatened to sue. You see, the brand had a track shoe called the Azteca Gold. Back to the drawing board for BRS, it was.

The vintage adidas Azteca Gold.

Why Is the Nike Cortez Named Cortez?

Knight talks about how the shoe eventually got the name Cortez in his 2016 memoir, Shoe Dog:

“Aggravated, I drove up the mountain to Bowerman’s house to talk it all over. We sat on the wide porch, looking down at the river. It sparkled that day like a silver shoelace. He took off his ball cap, put it on again, [and] rubbed his face. “Who was that guy who kicked the sh*t out of the Aztecs?” he asked. “Cortez,” I said. He grunted. “Okay. Let’s call it the Cortez.”

Matching the fiery name of the shoe was its success when it was released: it became the number-one-selling shoe in the history of BRS and Onitsuka Tiger, thanks to it being well-received by future athletes and casual runners alike.

To make a long story short, BRS changed its name to Nike in 1971 and, by 1972, cut all ties with Onitsuka Tiger. Nike kept the name of the Cortez, but Onitsuka Tiger had to change its name for the silhouette to the Tiger Corsair. Alas, Nike was finally at the forefront of sporting goods thanks to the immense success of the Nike Cortez.

Further Propelling the Success of the Nike Cortez: Influencer Marketing Before It Was a Thing

Before the term “influencer marketing” was coined and became the nuanced marketing tool it is today, celebrities were (mainly) the people who influenced culture. Nike cleverly leveraged that. They sent late Hollywood actress Farrah Fawcett a women’s version of the pair of the Cortezes, dubbed the “Señorita Cortez”, which she wore in a 1976 episode of Charlie’s Angels. Sales went through the roof.

Farrah Fawcett wearing the “Señorita Cortez” in a 1976 episode of Charlie’s Angels.

That same year, Nike went and got their first pro athlete endorsement from record-setting American long-distance runner Steve Prefontaine, who championed the pair. Then, in the mid-’70s to early ’80s, music legend Sir Elton John teamed up with Nike to design his own custom Cortez sneakers. These kicks incorporated the midsole design from the later-released 1979 Nike Roadrunner.

All of this propelled Nike to the forefront of culture and athletic wear. Then, in the 1980s, the Nike Cortez took a turn into unchartered and dangerous territory.

A Foray Into the American Underbelly: Why the Nike Cortez Is Dubbed “Dangerous” by Some

In the late ’80s and early ’90s, another kind of influence took the Nike Cortez by storm. Gangster rap from the likes of N.W.A began to have a big impact on the popularity of the shoe. In the gang-infested neighborhoods of America, the Nike Cortez began to go by the name Dope Man Nikes. A moniker derived from the N.W.A song, “Dope Man”.

N.W.A’s Eazy-E wearing the Nike Cortez.

Simultaneously, the Nike Cortez was becoming the silhouette of choice for many gangs on the West Coast of America. Bloods, Crips, MS-13, and many other sets wore them. MS-13, in particular, took wearing the Cortez very seriously. There have been reports of people getting killed over wearing the piece from the “gang’s uniform” when they weren’t a part of it.

Today, people are still wary of wearing the Nike Cortez in certain neighborhoods, although the danger has subsided since the heyday of the ’80s. But enough about the dark side of the Nike Cortez. Let’s look ahead to the’90s, a time which brought on a couple of light-hearted monumental moments that further boosted the trajectory of the iconic silhouette.

The Impact of “Forrest Gump” on the Nike Cortez

The first favor the ’90s did for the Nike Cortez was when Whitney Houston wore them while singing her unforgettable rendition of the USA’s National Anthem at Super Bowl XXV in 1991.

Whitney Houston wearing the Nike Cortez during her 1991 Super Bowl XXV performance of the USA’s National Anthem. Image credit: Michael Zagaris/Getty Images.

Shortly after, in 1994, the second-highest-grossing film of the year, Forrest Gump, featured the protagonist, Forrest Alexander Gump, receiving the Nike Cortez from his love interest Jenny, saying, “…and she gave me the best gift anyone could ever get in the [whole] wide world.”

The iconic movie scene of Forrest Gump receiving the Nike Cortez from his love interest, Jenny.

He then proceeded to wear them to run across the US, reminding the world once again, that the Nike Cortez hadn’t deviated from its roots as an excellent running shoe. Perhaps one of the best “ads” the silhouette could’ve gotten at the time.

The movie had such an impact on the Nike Cortez that till today, some sneakerheads affectionately call the retro releases of the OG Red, White, and Blue colorway “Forrest Gumps” as a nod to the movie that came out two decades later.

The Nike Cortez Today

Since then, the Nike Cortez has seen many talented and renowned artists—predominantly LA-based ones—make their mark on it in Nike’s ode to staying true to the shoe’s cultural cache. Names that might come to mind include Mister Cartoon and Kendrick Lamar, each of whom has made their mark on the silhouette multiple times.

At the end of the day, while collaborations on the pair are welcomed, there’s something beautiful about rocking a simple, in-line iteration of the shoe. This silhouette is one that fans appreciate simplicity in.

That said, there are some really beautiful Nike Cortez collaborations on the SNKRDUNK App that we’d like to shout about for our fashion-forward readers. And also, some in-line ones. Peep them below!

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For the latest releases, breaking news, and exclusive interviews, stay tuned to the SNKRDUNK Magazine and @snkrdunk on Instagram. Explore the SNKRDUNK App too and don’t forget to use our welcome code from the banner below before making your first purchase. Additionally, if you would like to try a pair out, visit our stores in Singapore and Japan!

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