When one thinks of “Air Force 1,” it’s usually not the United States presidential plane but its Nike sneaker namesake that comes to mind. Such is the shoe’s longevity and popularity, a constant presence in the mainstream zeitgeist since its 1982 debut.

In the last 43 years, the Nike Air Force 1 has witnessed the ebb and flow of market trends and consumer preferences. Still, no matter how turbulent the skies are, the Air Force 1 will always have wind under its wings. Its appeal is so profound that even its successors have struggled to eclipse its hype. Most may not even know there’s an Air Force 2, let alone an Air Force 3—hitherto this NIGO collaboration.

Campain images for the debut of the NIGO x Nike collection

With the imminent release of the “Black and White” NIGO x Nike Air Force 3 Low (“Black Croc”) on 24 April, it’s worth exploring how the Air Force 1 silhouette has evolved and what sets it apart from the Air Force 3. After all, a father and son may share genetics, but still possess two different identities.

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Nike Air Force 1 Low vs. Air Force 3 Low:
Core Design and Aesthetics

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The Nike Air Force 1 Low is one of the Swoosh’s quintessential silhouettes, alongside the Air Jordan 1, the Dunk, and the Cortez. Its core design and aesthetic have largely remained unchanged since its inception in the 1980s, spanning more than four decades. Thousands of colorways since, the hallmarks of the AF1 are always mainstays.

These include the embossed “AIR” on the midsole, the perforations on the toe box, and the lace dubrae that presides over the vamp. If there’s a singular colorway that defines the legacy model, it’s the “White/White” makeup of the pair: all-white leather upper, a simple Swoosh logo, and minimal embellishments.

In contrast, the Air Force 3 Low, particularly in its more recent iterations and collaborations, such as NIGO’s, has often seen more audacious interpolations. While still familiar to its predecessor, the AF3 features more overlays and a slightly bulkier design, incorporating elements from its epoch in the late ’80s—the transitional period in sneaker design that followed the simpler constructions of the ’80s and the retrofuturism of the ’90s.

Promotional image of the NIGO x Nike AF3 Low SP “Blue Void and Tour Yellow”, highlighting the anime inspiration of the shoe.

A contrast best exemplified in the NIGO x Nike Air Force 3 Low SP “Blue Void and Tour Yellow”, with its polychromatic design and special graphics inspired by Japanese manga on the tongue and heel.

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Nike Air Force 1 Low vs. Air Force 3 Low:
Material Choices and Construction

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The construction of the AF1 Low typically involves a durable build focusing on classic materials. Although sturdy, it has also contributed to the heavier weight of the pair, as is typical of shoes from the 1980s, sans the contemporary high-tech, lightweight materials established in later decades.

A common material is a full leather upper, often seen in standard Air Force 1 Low ’07s. Synthetic or textile uppers are also used in some variations, such as the Stash x Nike Air Force 1 Low SP “Soft Grey and Harbor Blue”, which features a mix of materials across its panels.

The Stash x Nike Air Force 1 Low SP “Soft Grey and Harbor Blue” (Image via 43einhalb)

The material choices are also where the Air Force 1 and 3 have the most in common. The latter originated with the staple leather build and construction, but it has also ventured into bolder territories with more eccentric material choices. Case in point: the NIGO x Nike Air Force 3 Low SP “Baroque Brown and Pecan”.

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Nike Air Force 1 Low vs. Air Force 3 Low:
Key Design Features

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As noted earlier, the signatures of the Air Force 1 Low include the lace dubrae adjacent to the vamp, the embossed “AIR” on the rear of the midsole, and the “Nike Air” embroidery on the heel, among other features. These components have remained mainstays throughout the thousands of versions, serving as strong identifiers that distinguish them from other legacy shoes, especially when the Air Force 1 and Air Jordan 1 often appear similar to the less discerning eye.

The Air Force 3, even if it borrows some elements from the Air Force 1, operates beyond being just a collection of features; it’s greater than the sum of its parts.

Unlike the AF1, whose features have become memorable in their own right, the AF3’s strength, particularly considering its less-established background, might be best remembered for its cohesive color stories. The “Blue Void and Tour Yellow” colorway, as seen on NIGO, could very well become one of its hallmark colorways.

NIGO debuts his inaugral Nike collaboration back in June 2024

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Nike Air Force 1 Low vs. Air Force 3 Low:
Conclusion

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In summary, the Nike Air Force 1 Low and Air Force 3 Low share a low-top basketball pedigree. However, the Air Force 1 Low remains a timeless classic with its clean and versatile design, while the Air Force 3 Low, particularly in its SP (Special Project) forms, offers a more contemporary, bolder, and detail-oriented aesthetic through its use of colors, materials, and embellishments.

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Best Nike Air Force 1 Low Colorways

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Best Nike Air Force 3 Low Colorways

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