For certain models of New Balance, intense bidding wars unfold in the market. While purchasing from primary retail channels would be ideal, popular items are often difficult to obtain through these channels.

However, secondary market items carry the inherent risk of counterfeit products. Professional authenticators from SNKRDUNK, an experienced sneaker authentication platform, provide guidance on distinguishing between authentic and counterfeit New Balance sneakers.

New Balance: From Adult Favorite to Youth Trend

New Balance began its history in 1906 in Boston, America, as a “corrective shoe manufacturer”. After nearly 120 years, the brand has experienced explosive popularity in Japan.

The phenomenon originated during the “Ura-Harajuku boom” that swept Japan’s fashion industry from the 1990s to the early 2000s. Prominent figures like NIGO® and Hiroshi Fujiwara, who led the scene, frequently wore New Balance shoes, drawing significant attention to the brand.

Since the 2000s, collaborative releases with select shops and increased media exposure have further boosted popularity. The WTAPS x New Balance 992 “Gray” became a highly contested item in 2020, receiving tremendous support from the 30-40 age demographic.

However, the brand’s image has dramatically shifted in recent years, with users aged 10–20 rapidly increasing. Contributing factors include the exceptional comfort that compensates for the relatively higher price compared to other brands, and versatile designs that complement various style preferences.

Recent collaborations with brands popular among younger consumers, such as “JJJJound” and “KITH”, continue to launch, though many items remain unavailable through primary channels, leading to prominent secondary market transactions.

As a result, New Balance, previously not considered a high-risk brand for counterfeits, has seen a significant influx of fake “992” and “M2002R” models in the market since 2021.

Authentication Points for New Balance: Brand-Wide Characteristics

Professional authenticators explain New Balance authentication methods, noting that these items generally lack universal authentication points across the brand. Therefore, the focus narrows to two key areas:

① Paper Tags (MADE IN U.S.A. Items)

Paper tags accompanying MADE IN U.S.A. items show distinct differences. Authentic items feature crisp, clear printing, while counterfeits display blurred or distorted text.

② X-ray Imaging Technology

Using SNKRDUNK’s X-ray imaging equipment, internal examination of outsole components reveals differences in information (such as size markings) and font variations between authentic and counterfeit products.

WTAPS x New Balance 992 “Gray” Authentication Points

The WTAPS x New Balance 992 “Gray”, mentioned earlier as a highly contested item, has spawned numerous counterfeits. Key authentication points include:

① Midsole

The text on the heel portion of the midsole requires attention. Counterfeits show wider character spacing in “ABZORB SBS” text with an overall sharper appearance.

② Outsole

Examining the shoe’s bottom reveals differences. The “992” marking on counterfeits appears less distinct and somewhat cloudy compared to authentic versions. The “new balance®” marking uses darker green coloring on counterfeits.

③ Insole

The insole, which incorporates various collaboration elements, also serves as an authentication point. Authentic versions feature wavy inner lines in bold text, while counterfeits display straight lines with misaligned print borders. UV light reactions also differ, with counterfeits showing stronger blue tones.

WTAPS x New Balance 990v6 “Gray” Authentication Points

The third collaboration installment, the “990v6”, released in September 2023, maintains strong popularity. Authentication points include:

① Tongue

Authentic versions feature sophisticated embossed logos, while counterfeits use simple printing.

② Outsole

The sole examination reveals differences. Authentic “new balance” text shows deep, clear engraving, while counterfeits appear shallow. The “FuelCell” technology text also displays different fonts, particularly noticeable in the “C” character.

“Ndurance” text engraving follows similar patterns – deep on authentic versions, shallow on counterfeits. The “™” symbol font also differs.

③ Heel

The prominent “WTAPS®” logo appears smaller on counterfeits compared to authentic versions.

JJJJound x New Balance 991 “Beige” Authentication Points

The collaboration with Montreal-based “JJJJound” ranks among the most popular New Balance models. This 2023 release shows authentication points, including:

① Tongue

Logo comparison reveals counterfeits appear slightly elongated. Additionally, stitching patterns differ between authentic and counterfeit versions.

② Eyelets

The two-tier eyelet system shows differences in internal corner shapes. Authentic versions feature rounded inner corners, while counterfeits display angular corners.

③ Midsole

Examining the heel portion of the midsole reveals clear differences. Clear component coloring varies, and the “®” symbol size differs between authentic and counterfeit versions.

④ Insole Construction

Authentic versions feature consistent stitching, while counterfeits often display irregular stitching width.

⑤ Insole (Reverse Side)

Font differences appear between authentic and counterfeit versions, with variations in text depth and texture.

New Balance 992 “Gray” (2020) Authentication Points

Moving to inline items with popularity matching collaborations, the “992” represents a masterpiece created by New Balance for their 100th anniversary in 2006. Authentication points include:

① Main Body

The iconic “N” logo, immediately associated with New Balance, shows size differences. Counterfeits feature smaller logos than authentic versions. The shape of components surrounding the “USA” marking on the heel also differs.

② Insole

Text printed on insoles uses different fonts. Counterfeits generally display thicker text overall.

③ UV Reaction

Under blacklight examination, counterfeits often reveal dotted lines not present on authentic versions.

④ Infrared (IR) Imaging

SNKRDUNK’s infrared camera reveals color tone differences in the insole between authentic and counterfeit versions.

New Balance 993 “Gray” Authentication Points

The “993”, born in 2008, combines elements from both “991” and “992” models. This version features the brand’s signature “Gray” colorway. Authentication points include:

① Main Body (Heel Section)

While subtle, focusing on the “S” in “USA” reveals font differences.

② Outsole

The “N durance™” printing shows even character spacing on authentic versions, while counterfeits display irregular spacing and positioning. Font variations are also apparent.

③ Upper

Magnified mesh sections reveal differences in fiber luster and coloring. Under blacklight, counterfeits display characteristic markings.

New Balance 1906U “Black” Authentication Points

The “1906U” incorporates the distinctive “N lock” system for enhanced fit. This model features all components in black, creating a sporty yet sophisticated appearance. Authentication points include:

① Outsole

This represents an immediately identifiable pattern with spelling errors in “durance”.

② Tongue

Comparing “NB” logos reveals authentic versions have matte finishes, while counterfeits display glossy surfaces.

③ UV Reaction

Blacklight examination shows different stitching reactions, with counterfeits revealing characteristic dotted lines.

④ Infrared (IR) Imaging

Authentic versions show white stitching and laces under infrared, while counterfeits display both elements in black.

New Balance 2002R GORE-TEX “Black/Gray” Authentication Points

The final model inherits design elements from the Made in U.S.A. masterpiece “MR2002”, creating the new “2002R”. This version incorporates “GORE-TEX” functional materials. Authentication points include:

① Tongue

Comparing authentic and counterfeit versions reveals obvious differences. Both material texture and coloring vary significantly.

② Main Body

Heel shapes differ considerably. Authentic versions appear more elongated, while counterfeits show wider proportions.

③ Insole

This represents a decisive difference pattern, as counterfeits lack “GORE-TEX” markings.

④ Hangtag

GORE-TEX product indicators appear here as well, but diamond shapes and text spacing differ.

⑤ Infrared (IR) Imaging

Infrared camera examination reveals overall color tone differences between authentic and counterfeit versions.

SNKRDUNK’s Counterfeit Detection Service

As SNKRDUNK authenticators indicate, New Balance ranks among popular brands with particularly high counterfeit circulation in secondary markets. The following outlines SNKRDUNK’s authentication processes and technologies:

Comprehensive Professional Authentication and Inspection

All listed products undergo individual, meticulous authentication and inspection by experienced professional authenticator teams. Based on accumulated extensive databases and years of experience, comprehensive checks consider brand-specific characteristics, specification changes by manufacturing year, and individual variations.

Unique Technology-Based Authentication

Beyond visual inspection, SNKRDUNK utilizes Japan’s only X-ray imaging equipment, digital microscopes typically employed by specialized institutions, and infrared cameras. These cutting-edge specialized devices detect subtle font differences in internal tags, adhesive reactions absent in genuine products, and internal structural differences invisible to the naked eye, providing scientifically-based, thorough authentication.

Remarkable 99.96% Authentication Accuracy

Through these rigorous processes, SNKRDUNK achieves an extremely high 99.96% authentication accuracy. Products failing authentication standards or identified as counterfeits are cancelled by SNKRDUNK management before reaching purchasers.

*Calculated from authentication and quality inspection errors among transactions from 1 November 2023 to 31 October 2024.

SNKRDUNK Transaction Process and Security

Unlike typical marketplace applications, SNKRDUNK employs a process of: Seller → SNKRDUNK Management (Authentication & Inspection) → Buyer.

This process eliminates direct interaction between sellers and buyers, removing concerns about personal information sharing and completely eliminating risks of malicious return fraud, such as “swap returns”, which are problematic in recent marketplace applications. Products undergo SNKRDUNK processing with expert authentication and inspection before reaching buyers, ensuring security throughout the entire transaction process.

Additionally, should problems arise with SNKRDUNK-authenticated products (based on guidelines) or shipping troubles occur, full compensation systems and dedicated customer support teams provide swift, sincere responses. Comprehensive support systems ensure customers never suffer disadvantages.

Conclusion

The authentication points presented represent only a portion of SNKRDUNK’s comprehensive authentication process, which considers multiple additional factors for overall authentication decisions. Counterfeit manufacturing technology advances daily, making independent authentication extremely difficult for non-specialists. Therefore, purchasing through SNKRDUNK, which conducts “professional authentication with extremely high accuracy,” is recommended.

While this guide focused on popular New Balance items, future coverage will include other brands and models for buying and selling reference.

---

What is SNKRDUNK Lab?

At SNKRDUNK Lab, we’re dedicated to combating the social and economic issues caused by counterfeit goods. We’re doing this by improving our authentication technology and raising public awareness about fakes.

By strengthening our partnerships with local and global experts and research institutions, we’re combining technology, data, and human expertise to set the new standard for authentication.

Our Main Activities

Investigating and Researching Counterfeit Goods
SNKRDUNK currently maintains an authentication accuracy rate of 99.97%. We will continue to conduct research and investigations, utilizing Japan’s largest database of counterfeit products to stay ahead of the curve.

Improving Our Authentication Technology
By introducing and researching various tools, including X-ray, infrared, and microscopes, we are enhancing our technology to ensure we can authenticate every single item.

Communicating for Public Awareness
We will regularly publish market reports based on our partnerships with external organizations and experts, as well as on insights and research findings gathered from the field.

Read more about SNKRDUNK Lab here.

---

For the latest releases, breaking news, and exclusive interviews, stay tuned to the SNKRDUNK Magazine and @snkrdunk on Instagram. Explore the SNKRDUNK App and use the welcome code from the banner below before making your first purchase. Additionally, if you want to try a pair out, visit our stores in Singapore and Japan!

Alternatively, you can also head to the SNKRDUNK App via the banner below and browse the latest and greatest in sneakers, streetwear, and TCG.

---

Follow us on:

• Facebook
• Instagram
• TikTok
• Pinterest
• Twitter

More SNKRDUNK Features:
Real vs. Fake: How to Distinguish an Authentic PAF x On Cloudmonster 2 “Black/Magnet”
Real vs. Fake: How to Distinguish An Authentic Balenciaga 3XL “Champagne”
Real vs. Fake: How to Distinguish An Authentic Balenciaga Cargo “White/Grey” Sneaker
Real vs. Fake: Nike Air Force 1 (Professional Authentication Guide)
Real vs. Fake: How to Distinguish An Authentic Balenciaga 3XL “Champagne”