The feminine hand has deftly sculpted the contours of footwear design. Through collaborations with well-established labels like Chitose Abe’s sacai and Rei Kawakubo’s COMMES des GARÇONS, a potent alchemy of vision and form has been wrought.

While partnerships with familiar streetwear monoliths such as Supreme, fragment design, UNION, etc. remain constant, a constellation of female designers, each helming their (eponymous) labels, has been etching an obvious mark upon the zeitgeist.

In the status quo, the creative concord between Cecilie Bahnsen and Salomon, Wales Bonner and adidas, and Martine Rose and Nike has yielded highly anticipated releases. Each drop, a sonnet in leather and thread, resonates with a unique aesthetic voice. When it comes to the artistry, parity is not merely a given but a reality.

With International Women’s Day on 8 March, a moment presents itself to illuminate the brilliant female-led collaborations. More than an exercise in cataloging releases, it’s an opportunity to commemorate the profound influence and unbridled creativity that women have brought to the fore, transforming footwear from a mere utilitarian object to a canvas for artistic expression.

Thus, without further ado, here are the best sneakers by women designers (in no particular order):

Chitose Abe
sacai

Chitose Abe’s sacai, founded in 1999, is one of Japan’s—and now the world’s—most influential fashion labels. Through her frequent collaborations with Nike, her contributions to footwear have been celebrated as a masterclass in design alchemy. sacai x Nike shoes transcend mere co-branding, evolving into profound dialogues between sportswear functionality and high-fashion sensibility.

Abe is lauded for fundamentally reshaping the language of sneaker design beyond a logo slap and a change in palette. sacai x Nike collaborations usually involved the deconstruction and reconstruction of classic models, the fusion of disparate materials, and the creation of hybrid forms that defy conventional categorization.

Sandy Liang

New York native Sandy Liang brings a distinct blend of downtown cool and femininity to (what was once male-dominated) sneaker culture. Known for her playful yet sophisticated ready-to-wear, Liang’s design language often juxtaposes delicate details with utilitarian silhouettes.

Her recent collaborations with Salomon exemplify this ethos, infusing Salomon’s performance-driven footwear with her signature aesthetic, resulting in unexpected textures, soft color palettes, and subtle embellishments.

Yoon Ahn
AMBUSH

Through AMBUSH, Yoon Ahn has spent more than a decade pioneering a fusion of streetwear and haute couture, a testament to her multifaceted design sensibilities. She also serves as jewelry director for Dior Men.

Her work with Nike is highlighted for its innovative and forward-thinking approach. Her Nike collaborations are characterized by their futuristic aesthetic, technical detailing, and bold reimaginings of classic silhouettes. Her ability to merge athletic pedigree with a distinct, often industrial-inspired, design language has resulted in sneakers that resonate with the fashion-forward of all degrees.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney, a pioneer in sustainable luxury fashion, has consistently challenged industry norms through her eponymous label. Her long-standing partnership with adidas attests to her commitment to merging ethical practices with high-performance sportswear.

These collaborations are renowned for incorporating eco-friendly materials and ever-evolving sportswear technology while maintaining a distinct, feminine aesthetic. By infusing athletic designs with her signature blend of elegance and practicality, she has redefined the landscape of women’s sportswear, proving that style and sustainability can coexist seamlessly.

Sofia Prantera
Aries

Sofia Prantera brings a raw, unapologetic energy to footwear via her work with legacy brands such as PUMA, Reebok, and New Balance. Co-founding Aries with Fergus Purcell, the label is known for its blend of high-quality Italian craftsmanship and a rebellious, DIY nature.

Prantera’s approach to collaborations, including those involving sneakers, is characterized by a distinctive graphic language, a love for vintage aesthetics, and a deep understanding of subcultural codes. Her designs often challenge conventional notions of femininity, favoring a bold, androgynous style that resonates with a diverse audience.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Cecilie Bahnsen is a Danish designer known for her “ethereal and romantic” silhouettes. Often collaborating with ASICS, Bahnsen’s designs are characterized by a delicate interplay of textures, a focus on intricate detailing, and the incorporation of her signature quilted and floral motifs.

By infusing the Japanese sportswear brand’s technical designs with her feminine and sculptural aesthetic, Bahnsen creates sneakers that are both functional and exquisitely crafted.

Martine Rose

Martine Rose, a London-based designer with a cult following, brings a subversive and distinctly British perspective to her collaborations. Her work with Nike often features deconstructed silhouettes and a keen understanding of subcultural nuances.

Martine Rose x Nike designs often play with proportion and form, drawing inspiration from a diverse range of influences, from ’90s rave culture to football terrace style. Rose’s ability to reinterpret classic Nike models with a contemporary, often unconventional, lens has solidified her position as a visionary designer in the modern era.

Grace Wales Bonner
Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner is a designer known for her intellectual and culturally rich approach to fashion. Her work with adidas is celebrated for its ability to blend historical references, particularly those from the African diaspora, with contemporary design.

The Wales Bonner x adidas collaborations are characterized by their refined elegance, attention to detail, and sophisticated use of color and texture, elevating classic adidas silhouettes by incorporating luxurious materials, hand-stitched details, and her special sartorial sensibility. Her work with adidas demonstrates a powerful fusion of sportswear and high fashion, showcasing footwear as a vehicle for storytelling and cultural exploration.

Rei Kawakubo
COMME des GARÇONS

Rei Kawakubo, the visionary behind COMME des GARÇONS (and Japanese fashion in general), is a true avant-garde pioneer whose influence extends far beyond traditional fashion.

A long-time Nike collaborator, their designs are characterized by a radical overhaul of staple silhouettes, pushing the concept of form and function. Her designs often challenge conventional notions of beauty and wearability, reflecting her broader design philosophy of challenging established norms.

CDG x Nike collaborations lately have been less about creating a commercially driven sneaker and more about pushing the boundaries of creative expression, resulting in highly conceptual and collectible pieces.

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Images via Shoji Uchida; New York Times; ELLE; Mary McCartney; Roni Ahn; Cecilie Bahnsen; Martine Rose; Vogue

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