For half a century, Japan has been at the vanguard of various fields, reshaping the landscape of many industries such as technology, (home) entertainment, and fashion, among many others. This proclivity for innovation and reinvention has made the country a mill for trailblazers, tinkerers, tastemakers, and trendsetters. Japan’s fascination with Americana, a collateral of post-war occupation, has led the country to become a nation with a strong passion for fashion. A people who didn’t just regurgitate what they consumed but refined it.

In the decades following Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo’s Paris debut in 1981, the country has become a de facto fashion mecca, ahead of the pack by a mile for microtrends. One such trend is the Japanese City Boy style.

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What Is Japanese City Boy Style?

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Like many things from contemporary Japan, the City Boy style is a product of various influences. Based on the book Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style by W. David Marx, POPEYE Magazine coined the term “City Boy” during its nascent days in the mid-’70s. The magazine was the original purveyor of menswear fashion news, focused on the preppy Ivy League staples of the time.

Back then, their modus operandi was to fly out to these American universities to photograph the students’ outfits and present them to an audience back home. The magazine has since evolved beyond this scope, but the City Boy term they created remains.

Ivy League Inspiration

As mentioned, City Boy style is heavily inspired by American Ivy League fashion, characterized by staple pieces like button-down shirts, chinos, and sports jackets. Over the years, it has borrowed from adjacent subcultures like streetwear, but its spirit is always present. Its evolution is a testament to the Japanese penchant for improving on what they’ve borrowed.

Vintage POPEYE Magazine cover; June 2012 issue

Modern Adaptation

City Boy style may be more pervasive among an older demographic, the working class, at least those in their late twenties and above. It could be a natural maturity in their sartorial sensibilities, moving on from the streetwear staples of graphic tees and hoodies to incorporate more sophisticated options. All while maintaining the edgy elements of streetwear. Thus, the amalgam of disparate features.

A style that tells the tales of preppy American college campuses, echoing the urbane grace of French and British workwear and whispering the rugged refinement of traditional outdoor gear. From the youthful energy channeled by varsity clothing to the effortless cool of skate culture. But throughout, a distinctly Japanese quality reigns supreme. In some way, it’s Japandi for clothes, a fusion of Japanese and Scandinavian minimalism.

Key Elements

Japanese City Boy style is an adaptation of classic items for urban living. Some key elements of the Japanese City Boy style include the incorporation of oversized, or rather, relaxed fits, layering, neutral colors or earthy tones, and functional fabrics. Comfort usually takes precedence, and thus, sneakers are subsumed on top of the preppy options of boat shoes.

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Shopping for Japanese City Boy Style

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Popular Japanese City Boy Brands

Popular Japanese City Boy Shoes

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Source: reddit, Tom Hoy; POPEYE Magazine; Pinterest

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